Here's a list of what I wish I knew starting out climbing outdoors in the Bay Area. Some may be simple, but these are all things I believe will help you get to the best adventures in climbing safely and efficiently.
- Go with someone experienced- this is the most important point on the list. There are a bunch of things to learn and gear to have that you’ll what someone to show you the ropes. As you are climbing at your local gym talk to people about climbing outdoors. Build trust with them by climbing safely around them and then ask them to take you out with them the next time.
- Get an early start to the day and check weather- keeping an eye on conditions and get out early in the morning. Less crowds in the mornings and you are able to beat some of the heat. Also getting out early you are in less of a rush which means you can enjoy the day more, and risk of safety while rushed isn’t as prevalent. You don’t want to head out just to get rained out. Also the Bay Area has some sandstone crags which are susceptible to breaking when wet. Please don’t climb these wet rocks and give at least 3 days after rain for them to dry out.
- Guidebook, mountain project, guidebook- utilize a local guide book and mountain project together to get the most info about the crag you are looking at climbing at. The more info the better when rock climbing. Use the photos of route, read comments and descriptions to understand the routes.
- Pick easy climbs- self explanatory, but the transition from gym to rock is a tough one as route reading becomes harder, the routes feel harder and the mental game is on another level. Better to build up than get hurt pushing grades early
- Food and water- make sure to come prepared with nourishment. So many factors already that provide risk that hunger and theist shouldn’t be added to the mix
- Helmet and stick clips- ideally your experienced mentor/friend has these for you but make sure to check. As my good friend Tyler says, might look dumb with a helmet, but you’ll look dumber with brain damage. And who cares about how to you style a climb with a pre clip. If Adam ondra can stick clip the first two draws on silence then I don’t want to hear anything about it.
- Lead first, then top rope- many first timers may look for top rope only climbs. But I’ve found, many of these top rope only climbs have a very exposed access to the anchors that have you walking to the edge of a cliff and leaning over to set your anchor. Practice lead climbing in the gym and at least have one person lead the climb first and set up the top rope from there. It’s safer this way in most cases and you learn to lead better and get more comfortable on outdoor rock
- Take time to appreciate the outdoors- what a blessing you have to be outside, climbing rocks. Make sure to soak it in.
- Clean Up After Yourself- To keep having good areas to climb with, having well maintained crags are a must. Access to these crags can be a problem and no need to have any issue show up because of disrespecting nature as we climb. Leave no trace and pick up trash that isn’t even yours.
- Have fun. - At the end of the day, climbing is meant to be fun. It can be hard to look at the grades you climb indoors and compare to outdoor grades and not feel discouraged. Just remember that you climb because it is fun, progress will come, so take time to enjoy the adventure.