Welcome to Stone River Crag Spotlight! Where we feature a crag we love, so hopefully we can fill out a bunch of these to provide all the info you need to pick out your next outdoor venture.
This week's crag is the Lower Tier at Boy Scout Rocks. There are so many climbs at Boy Scout Rock that we will only feature the Lower Tier. In my opinion the Lower Tier has the better amount of climbs as it features the most amount of leadable climbs compared to the Upper and Middle tiers. This is the perfect place to test your face climbing as the rock features tiny edges and seemingly blank sandstone until you get close and personal with the wall. One thing to note about the rock as it is Sandstone is to stay off the rock for at least 3 days after any rain, and if it looks wet don't climb. The approach is super easy so a walk out to check the rock and back isn't going to waste your whole day. A key thing to think about if you plan on regularly getting out BSR is a State Parks Pass. More info on that in tomorrow's Gear and Beta article. The crag gets super hot in the summer but you can find shade as the sun starts to set.
More info on the climbs and my opinions on them and some beta. I will only be giving write-ups on routes I have had the chance to climb(will update as needed) So SPOILER/ONSITE WARNING!
Routes(from left to right):
Ozone-5.10c- Offwidth crack climb on the lower section then pulling through a roof to hands and fists to the anchors. I had little experience crack climbing in general when I climbed this so I fought real hard to try to get up the climb. However, I was a great climb and I definitely need to get back on this one to tick it off the list.
Ozone Direct-5.11a- A TR only after leading up Ozone. Yet to Climb.
Railing Moss-5.11b- Yet to climb.
Dogzilla-5.12b- Yet to climb.
Godzilla-5.12d- Yet to climb.
Stegosaurus-5.11b- What a fun climb. This climb and most others on the Lower tier have this style of climbing. Desperate to find a hand and then once you get above them and look down for feet you see all the holds you missed or could have used. I found the crux to be moving across the Diagonal Crack, onto the upper face. From there its just hoping your feet can stay in it enough to reach the chains.
Chameleon-5.12a- Yet to climb.
Chamosaur-5.12a- Yet to climb.
Diagonal Crack-5.10c- Yet to climb.
Polaris-5.12b- Yet to climb.
Dinosaur-5.12a- I climbed this once before, and it felt similar to the other 5.11s on the wall. Thin crimps but really good edges. I haven't had a chance to get back on it with the rainy season but it's a goal of mine once the rock dries out to get this one finished. It climbs really well and if you can keep your edging on point this climb feels super accessible.
Old Dino/Miwok-5.11a- Yet to climb.
Chimney-5.7- Yet to climb.
Once was Lost-5.10c- This climb is pretty decent, but with it being so close to Amazing Face the bolt line is a little funky(nothing crazy), which detracts from an otherwise good climb. The lieback moves near the top are quite heady and after getting through the move you feel like a hero.
Amazing Face-5.10a- THIS IS THE CLIMB. Everyone should climb this. Probably one of my favorite climbs in all the Bay Area. It's a race to get on this climb. Both with other climbers and the sun if you get to the wall in the AM. The business of the climb is the first three to four bolts, with is about 20-30 feet. Then you have 50 feet of just amazing face climbing. And the area is pretty quiet so you just hear your breathing up there high on the rock, and maybe a bird or two. But everything else just seems to fade away on this climb.
Bolt Route-5.11b/c- Again more edging. This is a pretty tough start through 3 bolts and then the climb becomes Amazing Face-esque. Really s great climb but temperature dependent for sure as the bottom 15 feet can be brutal if your shoes are melting in the heat!
Earthcling-5.11b- Yet to climb.
Diablo Jam-5.7- Ok climb, I've TR'd and led this mixed. Not great but was good enough to learn to place gear for a first time trad route. I wouldn't trust any of the gear too much but if you're comfortable at the grade it can be good practice.
Black Lives Matter-5.11b- This climb is a doozy. Its supper slabby and almost always dirty. Temperature dependent for sure. It is fun unlocking the climb but can be frustrating on the first 20 feet as you will just pop off so quickly over and over again.
Toast-5.10c- Really fun climb, and would recommend over the 11b to the left. Just more enjoyable bottom half and then shares the second half with Black lives matter, so you skip out on the super thin and slabby section.
Gruntle-5.10a/b- This is a one move wonder climb, but will fool you into thinking its easy. Bottom section is a staircase up to a ledge and then your holds just run out and you are left with a spicier smear to reach a high handhold to the finish. Pretty cool move though.
The Lower Tier at Boy Scout Rock is a great introduction to the sandstone rocks that the Bay Area has to offer. Less smearing and slopers than Castle Rock, if you enjoy crimps this is the place for you, and is great for everyone to get on a top rope after the fact. Feel free to reach us by email for any questions or comments. Also follow us on instagram @stoneriverclimbingco to see what we’re up to there!