Welcome to Stone River Crag Spotlight! Where we feature a crag we love, so hopefully we can fill out a bunch of these to provide all the info you need to pick out your next outdoor venture.
This week's crag is the The Juice Shop in the Vent 5 area. This area steps up a bit in there are more intermediate climbs to get on but still very accessible. It also features to only trad/mixed route in the area. Normally we hit this along with Kombucha Crag on our outings depending on the crowds.
More info on the climbs and my opinions on them and some beta. I will only be giving write-ups on routes I have had the chance to climb(will update as needed) So SPOILER/ONSITE WARNING!
Routes(from left to right):
Electric Blue-5.10b- This climb features a pretty solid boulder problem through the first two bolts, then pulling around the arete on a good hidden hold to get up to third. Short and sweet. Not finding that hold between second and third will make this climb a tough one.
Fall Line-5.10a- Pretty good climb for an introduction into the 10s. Really short and sweet. Has a very cool finger lock heading onto the slabby top section. Be sure to start heading left after the third bolt to the anchor chains as the crack begins to get more and more chossy from there.
Eddie's Trundling Service-5.7- Really great climb that has a tough slab section to the chains. I always am wary pulling on the blocks heading into the upper part of the route as they look a little suspect. This is my go to if Kombucha is crowded for a warm up and the second best moderate in the whole area.
The Juice Shop-5.11c- The namesake climb. My favorite of the crag. Bottom section is a fun little boulder into, the middle section crux. Pulling on crimps and bad feet through to a glory jug and mantling onto the top section slab. It shares anchors with Eddie's so you can lead that and then TR the moves on it to dial in your beta. Such a fun climb and have seen many different ways to get through the thin face. Get on this climb for sure.
Kook Jams-5.8- The only mixed/trad route in the area and is a great one to learn on in the Bay Area if Sandstone spooks you. Great gear plenty of ways to get up with or without the crack, so you can practice whatever you need. The upper face can be a little tricky but take your time and it's fine.
The Juice Shop is just another great crag in the Vent 5 area that gives plenty of routes for all to enjoy. Feel free to reach us by email for any questions or comments. Also follow us on instagram @stoneriverclimbingco to see what we’re up to there!