How I Climbed 5.13a in Under 2 Years - Adventure Recap

How I Climbed 5.13a in Under 2 Years - Adventure Recap

This is the framework that helped me over just a year to achieve the goal of 5.13a. Hopefully you can internalize some things from this to take your climbing to the next level.
  1. Consistency- Biggest thing in climbing is consistency. Starting out there are some many things to learn and strength that takes time to build up. Tendons in your fingers aren’t going to develop as fast as training muscle would. So you need to slowly build up their strength week after week by climbing on them. I didn’t do any board training, because fingers are not the only thing especially starting out. Technique is as important as the strength. So climbing as much as possible learning as much technique as you can, will exponentially increase how hard you can climb. How does this look in my climbing? We go climbing pretty much every Monday, Wed, Fri indoors with most Sat being outdoor climbing days. Mondays are a hard boulder session(pushing grades early on and then switched to focus on kilter), wed is hard ropes day(either mileage or grade), fri is normally light day if we are climbing outdoors the next day so casual practice of technique and having fun with friends. Outdoors is finding and trying projects
  2. Community- this is the next biggest reason for my development in climbing. Why isn’t it first over consistence is because you never become a part of the community at your gym if you don’t consistently show up to meet people. But the people and community around you help push you past what you are capable of, whether it is helping unlock techniques, or trying climbs you wouldn’t normally hop on because of ‘grades.’ Community keeps you connected, and keeps you climbing. The most enjoyable part of climbing is projecting with your friends, or creating real connections with people and then spending time hanging out with them outside of the gym(whether it’s a dimmer get together or getting out on real rock) How does this look in my climbing? We climb regularly with friends at the gym all days of the week. Having fun, talking, hyping each other up, asking about work, life and current projects. Getting together for friends birthdays, dinner after climbing. Then outdoor excursions, always inviting people to come hang out on real rock.
  3. Control- Knowing your limits. Worst case scenarios are you get injured.(be it a finger pulley, shoulder or other upper body, etc) best case scenario, you learn about how skilled/strong you are and push past what you mentally thought was your limit. When you are in control you dictate how your body moves. You dictate what your climbing session looks like. You dictate if the risk is worth the reward. You dictate if injury is preventable. If you are in control of your climbing and climbing habits, you will progress so much faster than otherwise. How does this look in my climbing? When ever I climb I’m always trying to improve so trying different techniques to work on while climbing easier routes(quiet drills or dynamic drills), listening to my body/fingers when they are sore/irritated, attempting climbs above my skill level etc. 
  4. Constancy/Perseverance- This climb is too hard, I hate that climb/move. As soon as I hear those words from my mouth or someone else’s, it just invigorates me to throw a bunch of attempts on that move until it becomes a strength. Or if a climb is kicking you off keep working it till you get it. This comes with a caveat, these are moves that I can physically do or am close to being able to do. If after a few attempts it seems futile and I can’t progress past the move even in isolation then I readjust and find another climb. This is more for moves that just make you angry that it’s hard for you. Than attack that weakness. Work the type of holds you hate. Until you learn to like them and are able to climb them up to a new level. As you do this you’ll slowly build up skills and another area of your climbing will become a weakness and you’ll slowly just keep stacking these skills over and over. How does this look in my climbing? There have been multiple climbs that have kicked me off mid climb. And either the climb was easy to that part or the fact that I thought the move should have been easy just sets me off and I’ll make it my personal mission to defeat that climb no matter what. I like to take note of the setters handle as well and kinda of have this rival aspect with them until either I break through or the climb gets reset. Then it’s also certain moves/hold that I am weak at so I’ll purposely climb climbs that focus those moves/hold mainly. Like many I started weak at crimps so I hit them forever till I felt great on them and then realized I couldn’t pinch as well as my crimp strength so then it was utilizing pinches and then it’s now become slippers and still working on all types of moves and hold but those stood out to me.
  5. Climb- finally, just climb. And climb some more. But maybe deeper than that is look at what your goals are. You don’t have to climb higher grades and still find satisfaction in climbing. Climbing is fun. Don’t let grades drive you, let the joy of this great sport drive you. I often find myself while sitting at the base of a crag in the woods, or resting in the gym thinking how grateful I am that I can share experiences with people I am glad to call my friends. Find joy in climbing, and success and improvement will find you. Like Miley Cyrus said it’s not about the other side or how fast you get there, it’s the climb. So do it and have a blast.

With so many cookie cutter programs, training and all the other voices stating strict regiments to achieve climbing goals, I wanted to show what this casual Bay Area climber was able to do. No programs, no 5 days of training, 1 day of rest and 1 day climbing. Just having fun and crushing at a pace that was natural without risking connecting with people or risking health of body by pushing too hard. I think you set your goals and then find things that work for you to achieve them. And if that means regiment then by all means. But I want to climb as much as possible and I have a feeling if you have read this far you want to as well. So let’s go climb. If you want to stay up to date with my next goals register your email below. You’ll get all the adventure updates and be part of a community that wants to support each other in all their climbing and non climbing goals!

Back to blog

Leave a comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.