The beginning of a New Year always incites change whether we believe in resolutions or not. I have never really adopted the term resolution or set them around the New Year as times that I have attempted to 'New Year, New Me,' have always fallen flat, face first with only progression for a few days or weeks before the inevitable regression. I do however still believe that goals are important, and maybe because nothing has inspired me enough to stick to these goals before has come along that I haven't really put in the effort to become a better person. 2023 had seen me put in work on one of the few goals that I had stay true to throughout the whole year. It was a lofty goal, Climb 5.14a. After just under a year of climbing experience and maybe 8 months of sport climbing, I was really stretching. Like really stretching. And so began the battle to push harder than the first year of my career, and try to attain this wildly, big goal. I hopped on every hard climb possible in a gym, that seemed within my capabilities. Progression came slow and steady and after previously maxing at 5.12a pushing into the higher 12 range happened fairly quickly. However, that progress soon hit a wall. Similar to my first year of climbing, the grade shot up fast and came to a halt just as quickly. Not to be phased I continued on, trying to implement a framework routine to help with the grade chasing. Bouldering hard once a week, repeaters on 15-20mm edge and continued climbing on hard and difficult routes. Eventually the year ended, and with much disappointment, 2023's resolution was not achieved. However, the journey this goal took me on was important and much can be learned from it.
First, sometimes we set ourselves up for failure. 5.14a within 2 years of starting climbing is not something many can achieve. I had researched it and most articles told me that it was a fool's dream, unattainable except for absolute natural, elite climbers. Going into the goal and setting it, I knew more than likely failure awaited me at the end of the year. I wouldn't go out without a fight and when the bell rung, what I had accomplished was still, in my eyes, something to be proud of. I had worked my way up the 5.13a. In terms of grades, halfway there. Now, grade chasing is something to be cautious about, in that it doesn't tell to full story. Climbing is more than the grade we climb, and we get so caught up in that because it's one of the easiest measurements that we have in climbing. How many climbs at a certain grade, how many attempts to complete that grade and so forth. But with grade chasing we can get so locked into completing that specific grade that we focus in on a climb so much that we get really good at that specific climb. So we don't broaden our climbing abilities. I am a victim of this as I had pushed for my first 13a, I spent 10 sessions on it, with multiple attempts over 2 months to lock it in and get the redpoint. I hadn't spent all my climbing days just focused on it, but those 10 or so days were just getting good at the one climb and nothing more. Early on in climbing there is so much to gain that after sending it, I slowed down and took a look at what really should be focused: Quality of climbs over difficulty of the climb.
Second, this goal forced me to go beyond my comfort zone. Whenever I came to a climb that 'didn't fit my style,' or I heard myself saying "I hate/don't like that move,' I would attack that climb until I felt like I had mastered it. Not to the point that I was good at the climb but that I had learned what the routesetter was trying to accomplish with the set. Climbing can be comfortable. We can do routes over and over again that we know we can do and never push ourselves. Sayings like "Oh, I could never climb that," or "I'm not a 5.12 climber" limit our potential. I was not ok with just accepting that this is where my level of climbing is at, I wanted to become better, not for accolades or recognition, but because the joy I felt having access to more things to climb if my ability increased. So, next time your in the gym or at the crag, push yourself a little further than the day before. Don't be stagnant.
Lastly, I learned that it is possible to set a successful goal. The journey is the real achievement and so heading into this new 2024 year, my goal still remains to climb 5.14a. Whether I reach it or not, doesn't determine my success. Hopefully that day comes, but if not, I will continue on. Climbing has such a huge impact on my life, but it may not in yours. But you too can set goals that are going to provide you with joy and inspire you to become better. If you want to see how my journey is going follow us on instagram @stoneriverclimbingco and see how we are doing. Let us know about your goals by emailing us in the contact us page