Welcome to Stone River Crag Spotlight! Where we feature a crag we love, so hopefully we can fill out a bunch of these to provide all the info you need to pick out your next outdoor venture.
This week's crag is the Scale Wall at Auburn Quarry. Like Kombucha Crag from last week(check it out here), this crag features very friendly climbs and a more friendly approach. One thing I would say is though the approach is nice and easy it can be quite long so if you can bring a bike it helps reduce to time to crag by quite a lot. Also, be prepared for there to be quite the crowd of people here, REI always has classes here on top of many beginner groups, so just be prepared for that. Though, the climbs are some of the most fun moderate grades near the Bay Area. For my recommendation of a guidebook for the area read this article: Bay Area Rock Guidebook.
More info on the climbs and my opinions on them and some beta. I will only be giving write-ups on routes I have had the chance to climb(will update as needed) So SPOILER/ONSITE WARNING!
Routes(from left to right):
Gone Coastal-5.6- This is the easiest climb on the wall by rating and also the shortest, at really only 25/30ft. Not worth doing multiple times in my opinion and make sure to be solid as the route is quite greasy from probably tons of traffic.
Three Finger Salute-5.7- Was quite a slick climb and I think it sees the second most traffic on the wall. The climb didn't leave me wanting to hop on it again, but it is definitely worth another shot over Gone Coastal. If I do hop on it again I'll update but for now, not one of my favorites.
Gold Dusty-5.9- Have yet to climb
Rainy Daze-5.11- TR only
Booty Crack-5.10a- Pretty fun climb. Starts off pretty hard through the first 2 bolts and shorter people with have a difficult time through this bouldery section. After second the climb eases off and feels similar to the moderates on the wall in the upper section. Maybe stick clip first and take time to really find you feet down low as the rock is slick and thin.
M+M-5.8- My favorite climb on the wall. Has a really good flow to it and really interesting movement and rock compared to the rest of Scale Wall. The rock alost looks like it was oozing as a previous time. Would be a great first lead, and has plenty of feet and hands while still making you think and climb.
Scooby Snacks-5.9- When I climbed this, it was after it had rained the previous week. So lots of damp jugs and muddy holds. But definitely would want to go back and get on it again while its dry. Fun movement throughout the climb and is similar to M+M as the holds and climbing are good and engaging.
Scale Wall-5.10b- Have yet to climb
Landslide-5.8- I climbed this one the same day as Scooby Snacks and the wetness forced my climb to be quite different than what looked like the optimal route and holds. However, this one would probably be my second favorite on the wall. It's the longest climbing of the routes and has really interesting movement, especially the mantle/ledge move halfway up. It has a good flow to the climb and would recommend it to anyone making the trip out to the Quarry.
Scale Wall is a classic intro area for outdoor climbers, and Auburn Quarry in general is a completely different crag than any other near the Bay Area. I hope to get a ton more trip out here this coming year to really tackle all that the area has to offer. Feel free to reach us by email for any questions or comments. Also follow us on instagram @stoneriverclimbingco to see what we’re up to there!