Welcome to Stone River Crag Spotlight! Where we feature a crag we love, so hopefully we can fill out a bunch of these to provide all the info you need to pick out your next outdoor venture.
One of my favorite walls near the Bay Area is Kombucha Crag. It features some of the most beginner friendly routes, with similar to gym bolt spacing. This is the crag I would recommend to anyone on their first outdoor lead/climb. The rock features many jugs, pockets and knobs that provide plenty of feet and hands to get up the routes. The rock is a little sharp which helps the friction on the holds, and unlike the many sandstone Bay Area moderates, is not as susceptible to the rain/moisture. For my full write up on my recommendations for how to get started outdoor climbing check out this article: 10 Ways to Get Started Climbing in the Bay Area.
More info on the climbs and my opinions on them and some beta. So SPOILER/ONSITE WARNING!
Routes(from left to right):
Left Arete-5.7- This climb is ok for getting more miles outside under your belt, but other than that not much. It’s basically 10-15ft of climbing then a staircase to the anchors. Really is 5.6.
Shaky Bro-5.7- If 420 Shaka Bra has someone on it this is the next best thing. Has more climbing than Left Arete, but runs into the ‘staircase’ problem as well.
420 Shaka Bra Experience-5.7- This is the climb to do. It features climbing from start to finish, great holds and is perfect to get your head ready for more outdoor climbing. Everyone can have a great time on this route. Take it this way, everytime we come to climb in the area it’s the first route I check to see if it’s open.
Partially Newt-5.9- Just to the right of 420, this climb is the longest on the wall. It’s very good and is probably my 2nd favorite on the rock. This route would be better if the last 10 feet after the ledge was cleaner rock. This route also has 1 of 3 bolts I’d say are a little heady on the crag. Just before the ledge is the crux of the climb so take your time to find holds as your bolt comes after/in the middle of it.
China Pockets-5.10a- This climb is a boulder problem into easy climbing. I would recommend stick clipping the 1st bolt as it is a pretty heinous start and fall if you blow it. Once you get past second bolt the climb eases off. Take your time with feet down low as your hands are good.
Chimney Diver-5.11c- A fun climb, with some big powerful moves. The 3rd bolt is funky, as if you aren’t quite tall enough to reach from the rest you’ll have to either clip from the slopey crimp or commit to the span without it(which I would recommend against). I’ve seen people chimney up to clip bolts 1&2 but you miss out on the fun movement down low in between the two.
Kombucha Crag is great for beginners just breaking into outdoor climbing. I would recommend it to anyone, and in general the Vent #5 area is perfect intro for your first steps into rock climbing in the Bay Area. Feel free to reach us by email for any questions or comments. Also follow us on instagram @stoneriverclimbingco to see what we’re up to there!